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Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Moab, Utah

Well I live in one of the very awe inspiring places in the world and I have just visited another... For some of the photos - I will post more as they come - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tracy_moland/album?.dir=3031scd&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos Moab, Utah October 6, 2006 Well we are off – we packed up Thursday night, went for haircuts and got up and on the road by 6:00 am (or so!). We drove through to Pocatello, Idaho (where unfortunately we were one day early and couldn’t attend the Red Neck Nationals!). The drive was amazing taking us through so many different terrains from mountains to prairies to valleys to lava fields. There is certainly a reason that Montana is called Big Sky State – it is really beautiful! We found ourselves a great Best Western with a pool and hot tub, went to Applebee’s for dinner (now why couldn’t it have been a TGI Fridays by the hotel!), watched some TV and off to bed! October 7, 2006 Up bright and early again – it was great that the hotel had a continental breakfast including biscuits and gravy – what a bizarre combination! We drove through the dark for a bit and then emerged into Salt Lake City – again seeing new terrain – mountains but a bit different than ours here. We drove through some rain, a boring stretch across the desert and then found ourselves in Red Rock Heaven – wow. Just from the drive things are beautiful! We were so relieved to get into our cabin at http://www.canyonlandsrv.com/ – it was perfect 2 double bed/single bed bunks, chairs, picnic tables, fire pits and most importantly NEAR the bathroom! After unpacking we had some thoughts of going into Arches National Park http://www.utahredrocks.com/archesnationalpark.htm but decided to just hang out in Moab http://www.discovermoab.com/index.htm . We walked main street stopping in the bike stores – Poison Spider and Chile Peppers being the main ones! We then found our way to the Broken Oar where we had a great dinner (even though as the guide books says medium rare meat is hard to get!)! After walking back we basically faded (sitting in a car for 2 days is hard!) and were in bed by 8:30! October 8, 2006 Pat got up early and headed to the “Top of the World” http://www.4x4now.com/mttw.htm for a ride. I actually woke up bright and early and sat in the van and read. Moab starts to get dark around 7, with total darkness by 7:30 and starts to get light at 7 with total daylight at 7:30 (yup that is 12 hours of darkness which means a lot of night rides for the 24 hour race on the weekend!) We let the kids sleep in and I hung out with them until Pat got back. I got to meet the neighbors – from Denver and the 2 cabins beside us – from Calgary! The kids and I walked down and got lunch stuff and Pat came in around 1:00. We then headed off to Arches where we got to see and hike to the Balanced Rock, the North and South Windows, the Turret Arch, and were crushed to find out that the Delicate Arch – the most famous was closed due to above average rain – (Moab gets an average of 1 inch in October – by this point it had 3 (and wait there is the rest of the week!). The road was washed out, part of the trail gone and 12 people had to be brought out via helicopter. Needless to say we were crushed. Heading back to camp in hopes the Pepin’s had arrived, the kids were disappointed that they were there yet… but soon discovered the playground! Around 6 Terri, Todd, Sophie and Liam arrived armed with a Turkey – it was Canadian Thanksgiving after all! With a full turkey dinner done over a BBQ and camp stove we celebrated! We had a few beers and all headed off to bed! October 9, 2006 “It is raining out!” proclaimed Courtney-Lyn from the top bunk – “NOooooooooooooooooo” replied Pat. But alas she was correct… We slowly pulled ourselves out of bed and made an executive decision – we would go out for breakfast – seeing as it was pouring. The 8 of us headed over to the Moab Diner http://www.moab-utah.com/diner/index.html along with everyone else who had thoughts of biking, hiking, 4X4ing, or ATVing… The wait was worth it – we had a great server and great food! With a slight lull in the rain we decided to head back to Arches National Park and do the Devil’s Garden Hike http://roadtrip.beimers.com/day148.html . We got about 5 minutes in and the sky opened and the rain came down. After standing in a covered spot for about 5 more minutes we decided it wasn’t going to happen so got back into the cars (boys club and girls club). About 5 minutes of driving later, the rain stopped… so we turned around and went on the hike. We couldn’t do all of it as eventually the thunder was non stop… but we were out for about 3 hours! We saw the Landscape Arch, the Wall Arch, the Navajo Arch, the Partition Arch, the Pine Tree Arch, the Tunnel Arch and many more amazing rock formations and views. On the way out not only was the park closed to incoming visitors but there were rivers that were dry the day before (and again the day after). There were also waterfalls and I must say a red waterfall is amazing! With the rain coming down we decided to visit the famous Eddie McStiff’s for dinner. After a few appetizers, drinks and shared meals it was back to the cabins. We set up on the screened in patio in Terri and Todd’s cabin and geared up for Monopoly. We added a bit of twist that involved whiskey when you went to jail, community chest or chance cards. What else is one to do when it is raining and cold in the desert! Side note: the weather in Moab is completely unique – the days are generally very warm and the nights are cold… but if the sun isn’t out the temperature drops significantly and if it is raining… get out the winter coats! Later evening lead to one of the kids eating too many Pringles and throwing up in a sleeping bag, a girls and boys sleep over and the arrival of Bret, Gerri, Austin, Fran, Tim and Trina. Immediately the older boys created the biking plan for the next morning (based upon Pat’s pre-planning!) October 10, 2006 Up bright and early, Pat and Todd headed to Poison Spider to rent a bike for Todd. The guys then headed out to do the race course in the morning and Slick Rock in the afternoon (http://www.moab-utah.com/trails/gallery.html) . Terri and I armed with the 5 kids (Austin included headed to Canyonlands National Park http://www.nps.gov/cany/ and the area known as Islands in the Sky http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/islandinthesky.htm . With Terri as our leader, Courtney-Lyn in good shoes we headed up and around. Our first stop was the Mesa Arch http://www.gcollier.com/Mesa-Arch.html , then on to the Aztec Butte where there were old granaries and all the group but Mats and I headed into them. They were incredible still with seeds and berries from the past. As we stood on the butte they traveled inside it and met us on the other side. The kids were amazing but I must admit I had a bit of a “height” scare a few times! Next we ate lunch up at the Upheaval Dome overlook trail. Wow what a view that was. Then it was off to the Whale Rock and then the moms were done. A full day with the kids we had enough and headed back to camp! Where Pat and Mike had arrived and we had a nice relaxing night. October 11, 2006 The guys headed out early to bike Porcupine Rim http://www.single-serving.com/USA/UT/Moab/trail/porcrim.php while Terri and I and the kids head off to Negro Bills Canyon (a supposedly constructed trail…) Well due to the rain we constructed a lot of it ourselves – included crossing the creek 5 times. http://www.moabhappenings.com/Archives/hiking0410.htm The Morning Glory Bridge at the end was amazing – unfortunately due to our afternoon plans we could only look at it rather than get right up to it. Side Note: The kids are amazing hikers! Apart from Courtney-Lyn’s shoe issues, WOW…. They are willing to do and try anything. They have often been braver than I myself have! With Courtney-Lyn and Mats and Sophie and Liam having such similar dispositions and well seem like copies of each other the dynamics were great! Austin is such a flexible and friendly guy that he had fun with both the boys and the girls! It is wonderful to be with such great kids. I am also so excited what the future holds for trips and hiking and traveling knowing now what the kids can do (and what I can do!) After lunch the Pepin’s and the Moland’s headed out for the Guided Hike of the Fiery Furnace at Arches. http://www.climb-utah.com/Moab/furnace.htm From climbing through arches to walking on cliff edges to having our feet on one side of the crevice and our body on the other – it was absolutely incredible. Courtney-Lyn words it best – “I have found that the harder and more challenging a trail is the more you get out of it!” and this was both hard and challenging and AMAZING! We headed back for burgers and hot dogs and football! Yup a highschool game! Our campground sided the field for the local high school and we got to see the Red Devils live in action. It was pretty neat to watch! We actually were able to enjoy a fire and had a great evening. October 12, 2006 We got up to a huge breakfast of sausages, bacon, and eggs. Then sadly we watched Terri and Todd pack up and head off. It always makes me sad to see them leave – we are so blessed with such special and wonderful friends. As the guys head out to ride (Flat Pass http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/trails/flatpass.htm ) the kids and I hang out at the camp site. After a bit we walk into town with Austin and his Aunt Sandy. We do some shopping, check out local info and stores and then meet up with Gerri and Trina for a fun lunch at Zax. We slowly walk back and the kids play in the campground (did I mention the park is awesome!) I actually sort of convinced mine to swim – which meant Courtney-Lyn got her legs wet and Mats hopped in a few times! Most of the crew headed out for supper but Pat N., Mike and us cooked up a spaghetti dinner and hung out at the campground. We had a nice fire and a great visit as everyone joined us after their dinner. October 13, 2006 (Friday the 13th) Well one day of no hikes (but lots of walking) was enough for us. It was time to do something…. As the rest of the guys headed out to do the race course again Pat, the kids and I headed out to do a hike. Along the way we stopped to see some of the petroglyphs http://www.billandcori.com/moab/petroglyphs.htm and then went on to an amazing hike to the Corona Arch http://www.climb-utah.com/Moab/corona.htm where we used a chain to climb, went up a ladder and had the place to ourselves. What an amazing feeling to be so connected with such an amazing formation. It was so pure and quiet (well we also found the echo spot and was that ever cool!) In the afternoon, Pat went riding with the guys off to Gemini Bridges http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/trails/gemini.htm and the kids and I went and hiked the Slick Rock practice loop. It was really neat to see what the famous SlickRock trail is about! We had a great hike! The four of us had a great pasta dinner at the campground – spaghetti just never tasted so good! The rest of the crew returned from dinner and we had a great campfire… then it was off to bed with a big race in the morning… October 14, 2006 Rain Rain go away – come again another day…. Friday was beautiful – clear blue sky – and we woke up to dreary weather… We packed up and head up to the 24 Hours of Moab where – well this explains it best http://grannygear.com/Current_News/2006-10-17-Moab_Post-Race%20Communique.html “The (im)Perfect Storm By Wednesday before the race Moab's recent rains had set a 105-year rainfall record. The weather forecast was improving and the course was in great shape... then things changed. The weather pattern that had delivered two record setting "perfect storms" reemerged and created a third perfect storm that landed squarely on top of The 24 Hours of Moab. The race course had some of the scariest conditions ever encountered at this epic event. Racers on-course during the deluge experienced waist-deep flash-floods, chain-binding, brake-pad wearing mud that forced many into walking mode, gaping erosion ditches that seemed to appear out of nowhere and most dangerously of all, bone-chilling cold that brought many to near hypothermia.With the prospect of dozens of hypothermia cases and other potential injuries that would have overwhelmed the EMS response teams and put racers in mortal danger, the race director closed the course at 8:00 pm, Saturday. A decision was made to re-start the race in the morning and at 9:00 am, Sunday morning. The race was to be re-started using split times based off of the teams' finish times posted from the last laps from Saturday evening.” So in the cold and rain we hung out – thank goodness for Ed and Sandi’s 5th wheel where the kids watched movies (yes I gave in and let them watch a movie camping…). At least it was warm in there… as the day progressed our riders came in wet and muddy and there seemed to be no chance of the rain stopping. Mats raced the 24 minutes of Moab and came in second for his age! Woo hoo (he may have come in first but he was so far in the lead he thought he had gone the wrong way and stopped and waited… it was neck and neck at the finish!) After Mats’s race and with the rain coming down it was time to head back to town. The road had already washed away one time – so Pat drove us down and headed back up. The kids and I headed over to the Moab Brewery http://www.moab-utah.com/moabbrewery/ for dinner. With all the rain it was a 1 hour wait so we shopped at the nearby stores. I highly recommend this restaurant! We then headed back and I was a bit shocked to see lights on in the cabin. As we got closer the blind closed and I thought what – seeing as the van wasn’t there. As I cautiously headed in, there was Pat standing there – clean and dry… the race had been called due to hazardous conditions… so he came down with Pat and Mike in their 4 wheel drive for a warm evening in the cabin! He also didn’t think the van could drive down… and we weren’t sure when it would come out… aaaaaaaaaaagh! I hung out for awhile with Pat and Mike and it was off to bed! October 15, 2006 The guys got up early and headed back up to the race course – thinking the race would restart. The kids and I got up shortly after and as it was clearing up heading back to the Moab Diner for breakfast. We played Old Maid while waiting in line and at the table – I am the champion… Ask Courtney-Lyn who is the Old Maid??? When we got back sure enough there was Pat and Mike – the race was done. They could have ridden again but as Pat and Pat decided it wasn’t worth it. Luckily, enough work was done on the road that Pat was able to get the van back. We then headed up to the Delicate Arch which was finally reopened - http://utahpictures.com/DelicateArch1.html . This is Utah’s most famous arch and is on the license plates. It was a hard hike out to it but so worth it. The arch itself is just incredible and so awe inspiring. Although unlike the Corona Arch with the tranquility this was busy busy busy… We got back in time to head with the group to the Moab Brewery for dinner (again!) and had a nice farewell dinner. We got back in time to pack, load, and pack some more. We then relaxed for a few laughs and good byes around the campfire. October 16, 2006 (the longest day ever) We decided to head home in one day – which was and would have been fine – until we hit the snow and ice in Montana…. Which slowed our speed about 50 km per hour… Then when we were finally in Calgary – the freeway we take was closed (due to snow and ice and an 80 car pile up – why are 80 cars out there at midnight on a Monday night anyway???? OVERALL THOUGHTS: This trip was filled with amazing friends and laughter. Even when we were being rained on or plans didn’t work out quite as planned it was the people who made the difference. The incredible connection of true friends, amazing nature and no computers made for an incredible and amazing trip. The kids both say it was the best trip ever (even over Disney!)